Chicago shopping guide, part II.

Chicago shopping guide, part II.

Our first look at men’s shopping in Chicago covered the venerable Oxxford Clothes, hatmaker Optimo and others. Part two has the goods on a #menswear specialist and some more old-school purveyors. Haberdash 607 N. State St. 312-624-8551 info@haberdashmen.com One of a bunch of new haberdashers that have emerged onto the scene in the last few ...

Chicago shopping guide, part I.

Chicago shopping guide, part I.

Chicago is a pretty classic city. Not classic like London, with its tailoring trade and aristocratic propriety.  And not like Florence, where every cobblestone and sport coat is imbued with history and tradition.  It’s classic in a way that’s equal parts rugged Americana and serious business. At the turn of the twentieth century, Chicago was ...

Chausser shoes at Pitti

Chausser shoes at Pitti

Posted by on Feb 27, 2012 in Streetwear + Denim | 9 Comments

I can’t say I know how you go about staking your claim on real estate at Pitti Uomo, but I would think that “smack dab in front of the Cucinelli space” seems like a good spot to be, trafficwise. Nonetheless, Yoichi Maeda, the guy behind Chausser shoes, seemed a little bored as buyers and other ...

Robert Geller fall 2012–interview and collection

Robert Geller fall 2012–interview and collection

Posted by on Feb 14, 2012 in Streetwear + Denim | One Comment

For his fall 2012 collection, the eleventh for his namesake label, Robert Geller looked to England for inspiration. Models layered with sturdy wools, rain-repellent waxed cottons, and that most British of fabrics, tweed, walked a dirt runway that seemed to lead from an English garden. Gray, brown, and olive dominated the palette, while a few ...

Pitti Uomo: A Buyer’s Perspective

Pitti Uomo: A Buyer’s Perspective

Posted by on Feb 12, 2012 in Men's Clothing, Streetwear + Denim | One Comment

  At this point you guys have probably read a hundred Pitti Uomo recaps. But I figured that I’m chime in with somewhat a different perspective: what it’s like to visit as a buyer, and a first-time Pitti attendant at that. It’s huge. Good lord. I’ve been to plenty of trade shows in my time, ...

Yuketen fall/winter 2012.

Yuketen fall/winter 2012.

Posted by on Feb 6, 2012 in Streetwear + Denim | 2 Comments

Yuki Matsuda and his team at Meg Company have carved themselves such a distinct niche with Yuketen that it’s impressive, season after season, to see how creative they can be while remaining within that niche. Like Willard Wigan, they’re designing on the head of a pin. Yuketen takes American-made classic shoe shapes and applies unusual ...

ts(s) fall 2012.

ts(s) fall 2012.

Posted by on Feb 2, 2012 in Streetwear + Denim | No Comments

The philosophy of ts(s) and designer Takuji Suzuki is… in between. Does he make military influenced sportswear? Sportswear influenced militaria? The answer is in between. For the 2012 collection, no piece is wholly in one world or another. A military jacket can flip down its collar and become a seemingly straightforward tailored sportcoat. A weighty ...

Want les Essentiels de la Vie.

Want les Essentiels de la Vie.

Want les Essentiels de la Vie wants you to travel in comfort and style. Their accessories are neither over nor underdesigned, with helpful details where you want them but without utilitarian excesses. Want chooses to be excessive instead with luxury materials and construction.  At Pitti, Dexter Peart showed me what Want has planned for their ...

Cheaney shoes at Pitti.

Cheaney shoes at Pitti.

All the English shoemakers at Pitti seemed to be putting their countriest feet forward–Edward Green and Crockett and Jones, associated with sculpted lasts and top drawer finishing, proved they could indeed make beefy, lug soled shoes.  However, I was perhaps more surprised by the elegance on hand at Cheaney, which makes for many private labels ...

Takahiro Miyashita’s The SoloIst at IF

Takahiro Miyashita’s The SoloIst at IF

Posted by on Jan 29, 2012 in Streetwear + Denim | No Comments

The exclusive collection of Takahiro Miyashita’s The SoloIst at New York’s IF boutique is an homage to wandering. “Keep Walking,” a phrase repeated on The SoloIst site and on Miyashita’s blog, neatly distills the essence of the pieces at IF. Jackets and shirts seem patched from whatever fabric happened to be on hand, and nearly ...